Stef • November 6, 2019
Burgers are much more than just the sum of their ingredients. Grilling a patty and stacking it into a bun with arbitrary toppings and sauces simply isn’t enough. Schrnk’s attempt feels slightly superficial and ends up missing the target by more than a little.
Let’s be honest: we know our nitpicking is annoying. But we get irritated when we see nice places design their menus without any clear concept or coherency and serve burgers that are much less exciting than what they could be. And the main ingredient of our dinner at Schrnk was indeed wasted potential. The Schrnk Burger, a black-bun bacon cheeseburger with avocado, was ultimately a forgettable mayonnaise explosion, whose key features (the black bun and the avocado) were also the least interesting. Similarly disappointing was the special Angus Burger, with grilled pineapple and bacon in a mixed-grain bun: while promising on paper, it turned out to be an unbalanced BBQ sauce-centric jumble, whose valuable meat was in truth the weakest ingredient - way overcooked and weirdly chewy due to an excessively fine grinding. All considered, the dinner stacked up one too many oversights, and only the remarkably good sides of fries, along with the delightfully odd and cosy atmosphere, prevented the whole affair from bombing completely.
Schrnk is a lovely place that would be able to serve equally lovely burgers, if only it focused on their actual execution rather than just on their description on paper.