Stef • July 11, 2019
In a city whose burger landscape is more and more dominated by big multi-restaurant players, sitting in a tiny parlor is actually kind of refreshing. Sadly, this alone isn’t enough to make Omnom an unmissable destination.
The location in Wiedner Hauptstraße shares with many of its heavy-weight competitors the hand-drawn-cows theme but trades most of the annoying arrogance for a more low key atmosphere, supported by an extremely polite service. A promising start, if you also add to the mix the common triptych of values handmade/regional/sustainable - here quietly understated rather than loudly thrown in your face. Yet, the effort that they seem to put into their product ends up largely voided by a lack of confidence in their offering: overshadowed by the safer but uninteresting build-your-own choice, their signature burgers fail to be exciting enough to stand out from the crowd. From the bread to the overpresent sauce, from the unimpressive patty to the basic salad - the result is good, but unfortunately vaguely bland and unmemorable.
When it opened in 2014, Omnom was probably an above-the-average player. Today, despite its potential and its refreshingly unassuming attitude, it struggles to keep up with the steadily raising bar set by the competition and ends up aiming heartbreakingly low at the market of faceless dinner options on delivery apps.