The Burger Reviewer

'Omnom' Review

David vs. Goliath

In a city whose burger landscape is more and more dominated by big multi-restaurant players, sitting in a tiny parlor is actually kind of refreshing. Sadly, this alone isn’t enough to make Omnom an unmissable destination.

The location in Wiedner Hauptstraße shares with many of its heavy-weight competitors the hand-drawn-cows theme but trades most of the annoying arrogance for a more low key atmosphere, supported by an extremely polite service. A promising start, if you also add to the mix the common triptych of values handmade/regional/sustainable - here quietly understated rather than loudly thrown in your face. Yet, the effort that they seem to put into their product ends up largely voided by a lack of confidence in their offering: overshadowed by the safer but uninteresting build-your-own choice, their signature burgers fail to be exciting enough to stand out from the crowd. From the bread to the overpresent sauce, from the unimpressive patty to the basic salad - the result is good, but unfortunately vaguely bland and unmemorable.

When it opened in 2014, Omnom was probably an above-the-average player. Today, despite its potential and its refreshingly unassuming attitude, it struggles to keep up with the steadily raising bar set by the competition and ends up aiming heartbreakingly low at the market of faceless dinner options on delivery apps.

More Articles

'Das Eduard' Review

Das Eduard is a cosy bar with very friendly service, generally good kitchen and a couple of interesting burgers in the menu. Even though, admittedly, on some unlucky days you might receive an overtoasted bun or an overcooked patty, most of the times you will likely enjoy the same surprising experience that won us over.

July 4, 2019
'Klein Steiermark' Review
Sprichst du Burger?

In the heart of Schweizergarten there is a (not so) little paradise for carnivores. Klein Steiermark’s menu boasts a number of Austrian classic and seasonal dishes, a legendary rack of spare ribs and exactly one burger that, alone, could give a hard time to many of the specialized restaurants in town.

June 26, 2019
'Burger Bros The Mall' Review
Bro, Hit the Breaks

It’s not enough to serve a great burger to be a great burger restaurant. It’s not enough to throw in the cool logo, the predictable cow statues, the wooden tables and the design lights. Burger Bros The Mall serves delicious burgers, but forgets the essential ingredient: passion.

June 21, 2019
What's With the Negative Reviews?
Or the Importance of Honest Feedback

When I started reviewing burgers I was quickly confronted with a moral dilemma: do I have the right to write a negative review? Should a random person like myself dare judge a professional restaurateur’s work?

June 17, 2019