The Burger Reviewer

'Klein Steiermark' Review

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In the heart of Schweizergarten there is a (not so) little paradise for carnivores. Klein Steiermark’s menu boasts a number of Austrian classic and seasonal dishes, a legendary rack of spare ribs and exactly one burger that, alone, could give a hard time to many of the specialized restaurants in town.

Truth be told, we feared that their Steier Burger would be the generic token burger often served in this kind restaurant. But as it turns out, it is not only as satisfying as any of the other grilled options on the menu, but also damn delicious as a burger in general. The spotlight is all on that grill character: a thin charred crust allows the patty (a tasty mix of veal and beef) to be juicy on the inside and crispy on the outside, while providing a smoky taste that perfectly pairs with the thick slice of roasted speck. Besides the vegetable toppings, cheese and sauces, the final balance in texture and taste comes in the form of a surprising pumpkin seed-covered brioche bun. Admittedly, it might miss the chance of giving its burger a more decisive “Steier” character (edgier pumpkin-seed mayo? stronger cheese?) but thanks to its impeccable rendition - and to possibly the best grill fries we ever had - Klein Steiermark has gained a top position in our list of favorites.

Don’t expect any hip designs, cow references or catchy burger names here. Do expect, instead, to sit in a cosy summer garden flooded with the mouth-watering smell of grilled meat, and to have a beautiful, juicy and smoky burger with an Austrian accent.

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